May 4, 2026
How to size a chemise for a curvy figure
Hip-to-bust ratio, bias-cut fabric, and where to measure — a practical guide to ordering a chemise online.
Sizing a chemise for a curvy figure — specifically, a figure with a defined hip-to-bust ratio where the hips and bust are in different size brackets on standard size charts — requires knowing two things: which measurement the garment is sized from, and how the cut behaves on a wider hip.
Which measurement controls a chemise
The answer depends on the cut of the garment.
Bias-cut chemise: cut on the diagonal across the fabric grain, giving it stretch in both directions. A bias-cut chemise is sized by hip, because the bias allows the fabric to accommodate the bust through stretch but cannot expand beyond the hip circumference without pulling or tearing. If your bust and hips are in different size brackets, size to the hips on a bias-cut garment.
Straight-cut or empire-waist chemise: cut on the straight grain. The fabric falls straight from the bust or from just below the bust, without being shaped to the hips. This style is sized by bust. If your bust and hips are in different size brackets, size to the bust — the hip measurement is less relevant because the cut does not hug the hip.
Semi-fitted chemise: may be sized by the larger of the two measurements, with ease built into the hip for comfort. Read the vendor's size chart notes carefully; well-described boutique pieces will specify this.
Where to measure
Bust: around the fullest point of the bust, tape level and comfortably snug.
Hip: around the fullest point of the hips and seat — typically 7–9 inches below the natural waist. This is the critical measurement for bias-cut pieces.
Waist: the natural waist, 1–2 inches above the navel. Only relevant for empire-cut styles where the waist seam position matters.
The ordering logic
If you are between sizes:
- For bias-cut: size up. A bias-cut chemise that is slightly larger at the hip will drape gracefully; one that is too small will pull at the hip seam and ride up at the hem.
- For straight-cut: size up rather than down. The garment will have more ease, which for a straight-cut style typically reads as a more relaxed silhouette rather than a poor fit.
Return policy matters here
Because chemise sizing is genuinely variable between vendors, and because the bias-cut behaviour of silk is difficult to assess from a photograph, ordering from a vendor with a clear return or exchange policy is particularly important for a curvy figure where the standard chart may not translate cleanly.
The full sizing framework is in the lingerie sizing guide.